Flortex Professional Garage Floor Paint is the best gloss finish top coat for car and commercial garages and workshop floors.
Deciding whether to use an epoxy floor primer is a subject that is often overlooked by many businesses that are investing in a premium floor coating. In fact, many people aren’t aware that floor primers exist or that they aren’t needed and are an additional cost.
The installation of a new floor requires a lot of carefully considered processes. Floor preparation, being the first, is paramount and a floor primer is just as important, not only saving you time and effort but also money.
There are numerous benefits in applying an epoxy floor primer prior to coating your flooring:
Professional Primers are formulated to penetrate deeper into the pores of the substrate in order to achieve a better mechanical bond. Their adhesion is often greater than the top coat due to the inclusion of adhesion promoters. Furthermore, specialist primers are formulated to cope with all sorts of situations from rising damp, oily surfaces, dusty, unstable substrates as well as the many and varied surfaces from concrete to ceramic and from metal, to marble. Due to the penetration capabilities of professionally formulated primers, the surface build is usually lower, but one that provides a superb chemical bond with the subsequent top coat or screed.
Primers are also designed to seal the surface from the outgassing of the concrete, where air will rise and be expelled from the concrete. This can be due to numerous reasons including a rise in temperature or a change in humidity. Rising damp, due to a poor or non-existent DPM (Damp Proof Membrane), caused by rising water table and/or the immediate surrounding areas being simply waterlogged can also cause major problems to flooring. Using a primer that is specifically manufactured to resist water pressures from below and completely block the possibility of rising damp is highly recommended.
Due to their lower viscosity and thinner film build, primers soak further into the surface and this helps to fully seal the entire surface area and in particular, the small voids and divots found on every concrete floor. For this reason, air is less likely to push up and if it does, the bubble will pop and the resin, being thinner, will generally revert back and refill the ‘hole’ caused by the bubble.
In cases where the correct surface preparation has been undertaken, and the surface is sound (and you don’t have other overriding factors such as oil and damp, etc), then you have a very good chance that the coating will not fail.
However, with all the benefits that can be gained from using an epoxy floor primer, it is preferable for the assurance of the best adhesion, a long-lasting investment, and a durable floor.
Find the perfect solution for your concrete flooring and shop our range of epoxy primers
*Please note that air entrapment can also be created by incorrect mixing whereby the resin has been mixed too quickly, normally with a drill paddle.
The cleanliness and condition of a concrete surface are important to ensure the durability and adhesion of any coating applied over it. Emphasis must be placed on the surface preparation and cleaning of the concrete.
The following information will describe why surface preparation is important for optimum coating performance and the conditions which must be coped with when painting, coating or sealing industrial concrete floors.
Concrete is made up of three materials: cement (10 to 15% of the total volume), and aggregates (65 to 80%) and water, this making up the remaining volume. As the water and cement are mixed together, the chemical reaction between the two causes the mass to hydrate and harden. The aggregates are then bound together by the hydrating cement thus giving the cured mass its basic strength. Both fine and course aggregates can be used, depending upon the viscosity and/or strength ultimately required.
A fourth material – Polycote Bondex, (a highly advanced Styrene Butadiene Co-Polymer) can be added for a variety of specific purposes such as entrapment of air, the acceleration of the setting and increase of the overall hardness.
The minimum amount of water required to place the concrete should be used – since excess water greatly weakens concrete. Standard concrete is generally around 20N/mm, whilst a better quality of concrete is normally in the region of 30-35N/mm. However, floors subjected to heavy usage in industrial applications normally being in excess of 40N/mm
The surface of new concrete is always weak, even on good high strength concrete, because troweling methods and the curing process encourage lighter components such as surplus Portland cement and water to rise to the surface. When this cement rich scum sets, it is called “laitance.” Laitance is present to a depth of approximately 1/16-inch and is very weak and brittle. Unless the laitance layer is removed, stresses put on the laitance layer during use of the floor will very likely cause disintegration of the laitance and disbandment of any applied coating.
These materials are often sprayed onto wet concrete to act as membranes, which retard water evaporation while the concrete is curing. Curing compounds reduce rapid volume change in the concrete, thus reducing shrinkage.
Sprayed-on curing compounds are wax or resin based materials, which leave an almost invisible film on the surface of the cured concrete and will prevent the proper adhesion of coatings to the concrete substrate. If possible, prohibit the use of curing compounds on new concrete floor slabs. If curing compounds are used, they must be removed before any subsequent surface preparation takes place and any coatings are applied. A test method to determine their presence will be given later.
Solutions of various chemicals are frequently applied to new concrete floor slabs to reduce dusting (the breaking away of non-reacted Portland cement particles). These chemicals react with the concrete, producing a slick, hard, dense surface, which cannot be directly coated. This reaction often hardens the concrete to a depth of 1/4 inch or more. It is difficult to visually detect the presence of
most hardeners. A test method for their detection will be described later.
Fluorosilicates can be removed effectively by double etching (see below). Sodium silicates as well as zinc sulfates and sodium sulfates produce a surface layer which acid or chemicals will not remove. The only effective means of removing them is by scarification or by thorough blast cleaning.
Do not attempt to coat a floor treated with these hardeners without first removing them by mechanical abrasion.
Dry shake hardeners (metallic or non-metallic) are shaken onto fresh wet concrete behind the first power floating operation, creating denser, stronger, non-dusting slabs. It is necessary to etch floors treated with these materials. Mechanical abrasion is not normally required.
New concrete contains much water, some of which is surplus. Before any coating system is applied, the wet concrete must be permitted to cure (age) for as long as possible in order to reduce the moisture content and to permit the major part of the floor slab shrinkage to take place. The initial water content and thickness of the slab, the preparation of the underlying surface, the prevailing climatic conditions (relative humidity, air temperature, substrate temperature) and the presence or absence of accelerating or retarding additives in the concrete all have a great effect on the curing time required prior to coating.
For concrete not subject to freeze-thaw cycling, 30 days is generally considered the minimum curing time prior to painting. Please note however, that this 30-day period assumes an average or mean drying temperature of 20°C. In the winter and early spring, (and in an unheated, closed industrial building), a typical 150mm (6”) slab should be allowed to cure for 60 days. However, as a general rule of thumb, the optimum length of time as advised by most architects is 1 day for each mm of thickness, although very few people are prepared to leave it for this length of time!
Special ingredients (Accelerators) can be added to concrete to speed up the cure rate. When incorporated into the mix, the initial cure time may be reduced by a third depending upon the specific accelerator used. Accelerators reduce the water/cement ratio, improve workability, and can aid in cold weather concreting schedules.
Properly mixed concrete contains water in excess of that required to hydrate the cement. This excess water is maintained during the first thirty days or so by means of fine sprays, burlap-covers, plastic sheets and curing agents. After this time, the concrete is exposed to ventilating air and the excess moisture allowed to evaporate. Most architectural coatings are breathers and may be applied during this evaporation period without damage to the paint system.
It should be noted that almost all high performance and high build coatings, and twin pack epoxy and polyurethane coatings in particular, are vapour barriers and will not permit passage of moisture, either liquid or vapour. Moisture content must therefore be down to a level acceptable to the coating manufacturer before application of the seal coat. Moisture Meters are available for concrete and are effective in the hands of an expert inspector. We do indeed have coatings that are suitable for ‘green’ concrete, but it is extremely important that you discuss your situation clearly with one of our technical advisors.
Function – A form release agent must perform several functions:
Types – Most form release agents are one of the following types:
Form release agents may cause adhesion problems either when the wrong agent is used or when an agent designed for accepting paint is used in excess. The severity of the problem depends to a great extent on the type, strength and thickness of the coating to be applied.
Coatings formulated from epoxy and polyurethane resins (no matter how strong or ‘high build’ they are), may fail if the system is not anchored into the pores of the concrete, irrespective of form release agents. Therefore, it is extremely important that these release agents are removed and the surface pores opened, in order to allow the first coat to penetrate.
However, it may be of interest to note that Latex masonry paints are designed to have good adhesion over (properly used) form release agents. They have film builds usually under 4 mils per system. The film has greater adhesion than cohesion so minor film damage does not spread.
The freshly mixed concrete is carried to the site by lorry and poured into previously placed forms. Vibrators are often used to remove as much air as possible and to assist the flow of wet concrete into all areas and corners of the structure. The wet concrete is the tamped / screeded to a level finish by hand.
Prior to the introduction of power tools, a floated finish was that produced by a large, generally wooden or sometimes metal, hand float moved over the surface when the concrete was still plastic. This produced a flattish slightly textured surface which often contained float marks. Nowadays, the operation is carried out using powered machines fitted with either a large circular pan or large flat metal floats. Power floating is generally carried out later than hand floating as the concrete needs to take the weight of the machine. A simple test is when the heal of a boot leaves only a slight impression, say 3mm. Power-floating produces a similar surface to hand floating, with a slightly textured surface often with circular swirl marks from the floating operation. This operation is sometimes called panning. Too many passes can cause a ´burnished´ appearance.
Depending upon the skill of the layer, trowelling the concrete by hand can achieve a very smooth finish, similar to that produced by the power float. However, it usually exhibits slight ridges between each pass of the float where the concrete has slight depressions along the line of the top reinforcement. Care is needed in the timing of the finishing of the concrete surface. If the trowelling of the surface is undertaken too early, excess water may be worked into the surface thereby weakening it and giving a risk of rapid surface wear. Concrete worked in such a way can end up with little or no aggregate near the surface, leaving only very fine dust which in turn is called “laitance” and is not strong enough to take hard impact.
When carried out correctly on concrete of the appropriate class, steel trowelling leaves a smooth, very dense surface and is often used for the installation of industrial flooring in warehouse and similar large slab areas.
The special aggregate is spread in a thin layer on the bottom of the form and the wet concrete poured over it. After the concrete has cured, the panel is lifted and the still green, retarded mortar washed from over and around the aggregate particles.
In addition to the conditions mentioned above for new concrete, concrete that has been in service (if even for only a few days!) may be contaminated with oils, grease or chemicals The presence of any contaminants or coatings must be determined, and appropriate surface preparation performed.
Furthermore, the surface may well have been previously coated with anything from high build epoxies down to single pack paints and sealers. Deterioration of the concrete may have occurred due to the environment. The soundness of the floor must be evaluated. The feasibility of coating the floor and/or the appropriate preparation will depend upon this evaluation.
It is extremely important to ensure the existing surface is completely sound and never more so than when painting over an existing floor coating.
Too many people would like to simply re-coat the floor with little to no preparation. However, should the existing coating be peeling, flaking or bubbling, it must be realised that to simply coat over a product that has not fully adhered to the substrate is nothing more than a complete waste of time, effort and money! Remove all loose coatings with Hand Scrapers, Vacuum Assisted Diamond Grinders and/or Vacuum Assisted Shotblasters.
One of the most common problems facing the floor painter is the cleaning of dirty/contaminated concrete. it is important to realise concrete is like a sponge – it is full of air holes. Pour a bucket of water onto any unsealed concrete floor and you will watch almost the entire amount simply disappear. Being water, this will simply rise and evaporate over the following few days until the concrete reverts to a completely dry state. However, when oil or some other form of contamination has penetrated the concrete, this will never ‘evaporate’. Furthermore, it must be realised that a chemical clean will only wash the top surface. Due to the fact that the oil has penetrated into the concrete, as the surface is cleaned, the oil remaining within the slab will simply rise to the freshly cleaned surface and for the floor only to appear as dirty ‘now’ as it was immediately prior to cleaning!
It is advised to degrease the surface and then to check the soundness of the surface structure. Should the concrete have been damaged or weakened by such contamination, mechanical removal of the damaged surface is paramount.
A similar cleaning procedure or just steam cleaning with hot detergent will clean tight, old coatings. All loose and peeling paint must be removed prior to the application of any further coating.
The surface of poured or pre-cast concrete may contain holes caused by water or air pockets. Cracks, form patterns and other imperfections may be present. If the surface needs to be made smooth and even prior to application of the coating system, some type of surfacing material must be applied by trowel, brush or squeegee.
Polycote has many products to fill holes and cracks, expansion joints, etc, etc. Please contact our technical helpline where our team of trained advisors will be only too pleased to help.
The first step in evaluating surface preparation requirements is to make a visual inspection to determine the condition of the concrete surface. It is important to know the history of the existing concrete. This should include not only the chemicals to which it has been exposed (if old concrete) but also construction details such as; was the concrete placed directly on soil or clay or is there a sand or gravel drainage bed? Is there a vapor barrier? How far under the floor is the water table?
The concrete should be inspected for porosity, exposed aggregate, cracks, laitance, evidence of surface hardeners or the presence of a curing compound membrane. Any evidence of moisture or damp or wet spots on the floor should also be noted.
Determine the soundness of the surface by scratching it with a screwdriver, file or pocketknife.
The metal object should ride over the surface without loosening any particles, leaving no more than a shiny mark. If this process leaves a gouge, the surface is not sound and will not support polyurethane or epoxy high-performance coating system.
Another method used to test for soundness is to strike the surface with the edge of a hammerhead. If the hammer rebounds sharply leaving no more than a small fracture, the surface is sound. If it lands with a dull thud and leaves powder in the indentation, the surface is not considered sound or paintable. An unsound surface may be caused by the presence of laitance, degradation of the concrete due to chemical attack, an improper concrete mix, improper cure, or other factors.
Inspect the concrete for moisture by first looking for damp or wet spots on the floor. Note any leakage from other areas which must be eliminated prior to the application of the coating system. Check for hidden dampness. As described in ASTM Method D 4263, this test is preferred to the use of a moisture meter, which may give inconclusive results. However, by taping a 1m x 1m sheet of thick polythene to the floor at various locations where moisture conditions may vary, such as near exterior walls, near the center of the building, or indeed, any particular suspect area, this can quickly prove the presence of damp conditions.
Make sure the sheet is completely sealed to the floor. Check the sheet after 16-24 hours. If beads of water show on the underside of the sheet, there is sufficient water vapor present to interfere with the adhesion of a coating system.
Before deciding on any particular method, clean several relatively small areas to assess the efficiency of the method and the appearance and condition of the surface after cleaning. The reasons for cleaning must be considered carefully because results with methods intended to improve only the appearance of the surface can differ substantially from results obtained with methods intended to prepare the surface for a heavy-duty urethane or epoxy coating.
The floor surface should be tested in a number of places to ensure that the entire area to be coated does not contain oil or grease contamination. Areas around machinery, pumps and equipment subject to heavy spillage of oils and other contaminants should be closely inspected and tested. Grease and oil can be effectively removed using Polycote Degrease IT.
The following procedures can be used to determine a suitable chemical preparation method. CAUTION: Wear protective clothing, gloves and goggles and, if necessary, respiratory protection when performing these tests. When diluting acid with water, always add acid to water.
Treat several small areas (approx. 1sq.m) with Polycote Etch IT. A mixture of 1 part Etch IT to 3 parts water is recommended for testing. If the solution bubbles vigorously producing a uniform white foam or haze of bubbles and leaves a clean surface, there is no curing membrane or hardener.
Should a single etch result in the surface being appreciably rougher than fine sandpaper, repeat the test with a more dilute acid solution until an etched profile similar to fine sandpaper is obtained.
However, if the opposite happen whereby only a weak or partial reaction occurs, beware of the fact that a curing agent or surface hardener is present. In many cases, more than one etch is required. A poor result and/or failure of the above tests indicates the presence of a hardener, which cannot be removed chemically. Remove concrete to a depth of at least 1-3mm, preferably with the use of a heavy diamond grinder or scabbler.
For the removal of existing paints and epoxy coatings, most companies will favour mechanical removal. However, if the job is only small and/or the conditions not allow such methods, then chemical preparation will be required. For the removal of standard single pack paints and linemarking, use Polycote Graffiti Remover Liquid. For heavy painted surfaces or areas coated with twin pack paints, the use of Polycote Graffiti Remover (Twin Pack) Gel is advised.
Scrub a small area with non-woven abrasive and the chosen stripper. Remove paint and rinse thoroughly with a cleaner to neutralize. Once completed, continue with the Polycote etch IT as explained above.
The importance, type and degree of preparation required before painting depends on the type and condition of concrete, the exposure, and the coating system to be applied. The concrete should be clean, dry and free of dust, dirt, oil, surface matter and form release build-up.
IMPORTANT NOTE: When using any of the equipment or chemical solutions described below, be sure to follow all manufacturer’s instructions and follow any recommended safety procedures.
The obvious and most basic method of preparation in order to remove all surface dust, dirt and any other loose/friable material.
As an alternative to mechanical methods, the preparation of concrete floors for coatings application can be accomplished by using chemical cleaning methods. Capitalized solvents or solutions as mentioned below are available.
Etching is a very low cost chemical method commonly used to treat concrete floors to remove laitance and provide a profile. The objective of acid etching Polycote Etch IT is to dissolve the weak surface layer known as laitance and open the pores to allow penetration of the sealer coat. Polycote Etch It is a concentrated Hydrochloric Acid and should be diluted with water. The volume dilution ratio can range from 1 part acid to 3 parts water to as weak as 1 part acid to 10 parts water depending upon the floor being treated.
The surface is pre-dampened and the diluted acid applied uniformly over an appropriate area. The approximate spreading rate is normally around 10sq.m per litre of acid mixture. The acid should remain on the surface for two to three minutes of bubbling reaction. After application of the acid, scrub the surface with a stiff bristle pavement, scrubbing broom or rotary power scrubber will facilitate the etching process. The vigorous formation of bubbles indicates proper etching and must be obtained. The absence of bubbles or a weak reaction indicates the presence of a curing compound membrane or a surface hardener on the concrete.
Once etching is completed, thorough rinsing with fresh water must be done before the surface dries – in order to avoid the formation of salts on the surface. Once formed, these salts are difficult to remove. Any residual acidity must be neutralized with an alkaline cleaner followed by thorough rinsing with fresh water.
A properly etched concrete surface will be hard but porous and will have a profile similar to that of fine sandpaper. Water will penetrate easily and will hot bead up on the surface. In many cases, more than one etching operation is required to obtain a satisfactory result. The etching solution should never be more concentrated than 1 part acid to 3 parts water. If satisfactory results are not obtained with this concentration, repeat the etching procedure. If the surface is rougher than fine sandpaper after one etching, more dilute acid solutions (dilution up to 1 part acid to 10 parts water) should be used. In addition to muriatic acid, proprietary etchants, which contain phosphoric acid and concentrated cleaners, are available and may also be used.
As an alternative to etching with hydrochloric acid, the use of phosphoric acid (which is non-volatile) should be considered in sensitive situations.
Please note that Acid Etching will not be effective over release agents, most curing membranes, or most surface hardeners. Should you wish to remove greases, oils, or other types of contaminants, these can be treated with Polycote Degrease IT prior to etching procedure.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: Please further note, that both hydrochloric and phosphoric acids cause burns to skin and eyes, and the inhalation of acid fumes may be harmful.
Emulsifiable solvents such as Membrane Remover and the cleaner are a balance of detergents, solvents and emulsifiers. They are soluble in water. They are powerful cleaners, which very effectively cut through and remove rubber burns, grease, oil and stubborn soilage and hold these contaminants in suspension for easy pick up with a wet vacuum or other disposal method. The Membrane Remover may also be used to remove many types of curing membranes. Thorough rinsing with fresh water must follow the use of these solvents. If the Membrane Remover is used, rinsing with the Cleaner must precede the final water rinse.
The removal of any grease, oils and fats from floor and wall surfaces is imperative, prior to applying paint or other coatings. Polycote Degrease IT is a powerful multi-purpose cleaner and degreaser, containing phosphate, alkali builders and solvents in a highly alkaline detergent composite.
Normally diluted with water at a ratio between 1:4 for floors and 1:40 for machinery, Degrease IT may also be used undiluted for removing severe grease contamination. Spray or pour and brush the chemical onto the surface to be cleaned and allow to penetrate for at least 5 minutes. The surface should then be thoroughly scrubbed to lift the grease or oil from the surface. Once done, this should then be thoroughly rinsed away. An Aquavac is an excellent way of removing the waste. Better still, is the use of a Scrubber Drier which will not only lift the contamination from the surface due to the heavy scrubbing motion but will also suck of the resultant liquid into a built in waste tank leaving not only a well cleaned surface but also one that is pretty much dry.
As mentioned previously, it is important to realise concrete is like a sponge – it is full of air holes. Pour a bucket of water onto any unsealed concrete floor and you will watch almost the entire amount simply disappear. Being water, this will simply rise and evaporate over the following few days until the concrete reverts to a completely dry state. However, when oil or some other form of contamination has penetrated the concrete, this will never ‘evaporate’. Furthermore, it must be realised that a chemical clean will only wash the top surface. Due to the fact that the oil has penetrated into the concrete, as the surface is cleaned, the oil remaining within the slab will simply rise to the freshly cleaned surface and for the floor only to appear as dirty ‘now’ as it was immediately prior to cleaning! Should you wish to coat the floor, then this procedure should be completed as soon as possible after the completion of the cleaning. Polycote OT Primer is the best option for this as it can bind up to 15% oil into itself and its unique ability to adhere to previously contaminated floors is almost unparalleled.
Sanding and wire brushing is commonly used to remove loose matter from the surface and to a lesser extent to open voids and holes before coating. Furthermore, both power and hand wire brushing is also used to abrade the existing surface to provide a ‘key’ for any subsequent coating.
The preparation of concrete using certain mechanical methods has the advantage of speed. If the more rigorous methods such as blasting or scarifying are attempted by insufficiently trained operators, however, removal of too much of the surface can easily result in exposed aggregate and an overly rough and porous surface. It must be realized that improperly performed mechanical preparation can severely damage a concrete floor.
Power grinding, sanding or scraping can be used to open holes and voids and to remove curing membranes, some hardeners, loose matter and laitance from the surface of floor slabs. These methods can be used in place of blasting but are considerably slower and less effective.
This method of industrial floor preparation is widely regarded as the most professional and most effective surface preparation method for concrete is a light blast with a Vacuum Assisted Shotblaster. The objective is the same as acid etching. The blast removes all form release agents, weak concrete, laitance, dirt and contamination. Being connected to one of our highly powerful industrial vacuums assures that at least 95% of the dust is contained.
When inspection and testing procedures indicate concrete floors must be chipped down to sound concrete Scarifiers and Scabblers may be used to remove the top layer of concrete to expose a fresh, clean surface. This technique is practical only for floors. Important; dust protection is required when used in the presence of machinery, food or close traffic. We have a full team of qualified operatives ready to complete this work as necessary. However, the equipment can be either purchased or rented should you wish to complete the work yourselves. Please be free to ask.
Far more than just a ‘sander’, our Diamond Grinders are powerful enough for almost any demanding industrial requirement. They are used for many and varied applications, from the ‘keying’ of existing surfaces, removal of existing paints and weak laitance, to the smoothing out of uneven surfaces, we have a grinder that will be ideal for your application. On the contrary, we are often asked for the complete whereby we are asked to actually roughen the surface to achieve higher levels of slip resistance.
Diamond grinding can smooth out floors to a laser level finish, removing minor pits and divots, high spots and roughness on concrete floors. Should two slabs of concrete be poorly laid to different height, the grinder is used to smooth out the transition from one slab to the other. A huge benefit of the system is that all machines, ranging from simple hand held grinders to the biggest ride-on machines can all be connected to industrial dust recovery units. This in turn means that we can achieve a 95% dust free operation.
With grinders that have pressure controlled rubber mounted non-planetary grinding heads and specially designed diamonds, you are able to grind and/or polish without scouring the concrete, even on cracks and expansion joints. The specialist disc, embedded with a coarse diamond grit can easily prepare, clean and abrade existing coatings for re-coat. This process will remove thin layer coatings and weak toppings and provide a textured finish suitable for two coatings to bond together. Should an existing coating be already down that is fundamentally adhering very well to the surface but one that simply needs rejuvenating, the keying of this existing surface in order to accept a further coat can also be easily achieved.
In comparison to shotblasting, diamond grinding is relatively is slow and intensive. However, the finish left can be far smoother. In some cases, we are asked to actually polish the surface to a super smooth finish.
Please do note however that in the wrong hands, diamond grinders can leave swirl marks in the slab should the operative be untrained or overly aggressive.
Painting concrete floors can be an easy and very pleasing operation. Equally, without correct preparation, it can become a difficult and painstaking job. For maximum performance of a paint or coating, the surface must be adequately prepared to effect positive and long lasting adhesion of the coating to the substrate.
The nature and degree of surface preparation required to achieve a sound floor substrate for application of a coating system depends upon the type and quality of the concrete, the presence of any surface treatments, the nature and length of exposure conditions, the type of protection desired, economics, and other considerations.
Whatever the history of the floor in question, the end result must be a sound surface, clean and free of contaminants and absorbent enough to ensure good penetration by the coating.
Finally, no matter how good the coating, its effective service life will be shortened by insufficient or ineffective surface preparation.
If you are one of the thousands of people/companies suffering from failing expansion joints then I am sure you will find the following notes useful:
First of all, I would like to confirm exactly why the joints are there in the first place because one major problem is that people are filling expansion joints with hard /solid materials and this is fundamentally wrong!
Very simply, expansion joints are there to allow expansion and contraction and should you prevent the slab from moving, you may well very quickly find the slab cracking with ‘spidery’ irregular cracking across the slab which will only get worse – all due to the wrong material in the expansion joint.
Secondly, joints often fail in the first place because the builder uses a ‘cheap’ flexible silicone (or similar) which certainly allows for expansion and contraction BUT, the product is soft. You may well say, ‘well what’s the problem with that?”. Very simply, if you traverse a soft joint with a pallet truck or forklift, this ‘soft’ joint squashes – the weight of the vehicle is transferred to the shoulders of the concrete and very simply the 90° edge doesn’t like it and starts to break up!! And as we all know – virtually every industrial building in the country suffers from this problem!
By the time you read this guide, you are more than likely in one of two predicaments – 1) expansion joint filled with hard material and experiencing cracking in both the joint and within the slab or 2) the edges are breaking up and the existing joint has ‘fallen’ out…! So what we will do is to consider both of them separately and by the end of this – whatever your predicament – you will have an easy, fast, permanent solution!
If you are quick enough and the edges of the concrete are still relatively intact, excellent. Simply clean out the joint, making sure there is no oil or grease and that the joint is dry. If the resultant hole is deep, here is an excellent tip: you can either use kiln-dried sand available from any builders merchant to fill the joint up to 10-20mm down from the surface. The only thing I would say about this method is that sand/dust will be on the sides of the joint and subsequently stop the epoxy resin from sticking to the concrete so simply but carefully brush along the shoulders of the joint to clean them off.
Alternatively, you can purchase our Foam Backing Rod which is available in 15mm, 20mm and 30mm diameter ‘rods’. This is quick and clean and simply involves you ‘squashing’ the rod into the joint and again, pushing it down to about 10 – 20mm below the surface. You can then pour any one of our professional expansion joint products to fill the joint.
For the different choices of product, please see the options available at the end of this guide along with a short explanation of their individual benefits.
If the shoulders of the joints are not too bad, any one of the twin pack Jointex products will fill the hole completely including the damaged edges. However, I would like to make it clear that whilst many of our customers do fill this way, the Jointex products are not designed to ‘feather-edge’. What is meant by that is that every hole goes from ‘whatever depth’ to nothing – and it is the thin edges of every repair that ultimately is weak and starts to fail.
So let’s now assume the edges are of a nature whereby it would be best to repair first with a product that is much stronger and harder and is genuinely designed for repairing rather than expansion and contraction.
This product will be Polycote Cretex EP – a fantastic, easy and quick product to use. It requires no priming, no digging out and will feather edge with no problem whatsoever. Furthermore, it will take just about any amount of heavy traffic you might care to give it from forklift trucks to tanks. Yes, even tank museums have used out products with 100% success! Either fill and shape the sides which is not always easy – depending upon the depth of the repair. Alternatively, a length of timber can be used as a shutter. The one problem with this is to time it right and remove the ‘shutter’ before it is stuck good and proper!! Can be done and easily too, but just done leave it too late…!
Now for the PROFESSIONAL way…
…and this will now relate to the joints that you may have that have been filled with epoxy mortars and are causing issues but not allowing expansion and contraction…
Just keeping to the filling and repairing for the moment. The best and most professional way to repair and fill the joint is as follows…
Repair with either Polycote Cretex EP (for smaller individual repairs) or Cretex EP Mortar – which is mixed in 30kg units. Whichever product is used, fill the expansion joint completely (obviously you will have cleaned the joint first and will have removed all loose material) and allow the epoxy to cure – say 18 – 24 hours. Then run a diamond grinder in a straight line down the centre of the original joint. Tip: to keep this straight the use of a chalk line will achieve a nice straight line easily. Once you have sawn through, fill the joint with one of the Polycote Jointex options.
NOW, you will have an expansion joint where the shoulders are solid and supremely strong and with a joint that will not only correctly allow for expansion and contraction but will not ‘squash’ and will therefore continue to protect and support the edges of the joint.
You don’t need expensive labour. You don’t need any ‘fancy tools’ other than an angle grinder and a trowel. The products are non-toxic and non-taint meaning no small and suitable in food and other sensitive areas. Not only are they extremely chemical and abrasion resistant, but they are impact resistant. They cure quickly certainly within 24 hours and will take virtually any amount of traffic. You too can join the thousands of happy customers – worldwide!
Jointex EP. This product is a twin pack epoxy and the flagship of our jointing range, both for strength and resistance.
Jointex PU. This is a twin-pack polyurethane jointing compound that offers further flexibility and a greater chemical resistance
Jointex XFH. A unique formulation that not only has excellent flexibility and strength but will cure and be ready for use by ANY traffic in less than 2 hours
Jointex CSG. Another extremely unique resin that can be applied in cold stores down to as low as -30°C and can still be used by any forklifts or pallet truck in less than 2 hours!
Jointex SP. Our answer to those of you who do not want to mix a resin but to simply apply a product direct from a tube. Easy, simple and strong.
Thank you for your interest and we hope you have found the above information both interesting and helpful. However, should you still have be unsure as to the best solution for your needs, please don’t hesitate to ring our technical helpline now on 01234 846400. We have a fully qualified team ready to give practical advice and help assist you as much as possible.
A lot of people simply wish to re-coat their floors, due to the existing coating flaking, bubbling or lifting. Alternatively, the existing may be well adhered but has simply become worn and tired.
One big mistake is to simply overcoat the existing surface and look forward to everything being fresh and bright and ready for use. Unfortunately, no sooner have they completed the task, they find the first use simply lifts the paint off the floor!
The next point of ‘attack’ for the unfortunate painter, is to contact the manufacturer and complain bitterly that ‘this must be a bad batch of paint’!
Can I say at this point that it is EXTREMELY unlikely to be the fault of the paint! “Huh!” I hear you say “How typical!” Well, with no further ado – here are three very simple checks that you can make to see if you can pinpoint the real issue. Simply peel a piece of the offending coating (or de-laminating screed) off the floor, turn it over and take a close look at the back!
9 times out of 10, this will highlight one of the three most common issues;
This instantly shows that the substrate has quite possibly been previously sealed with some sort of surface hardener or silicone sealer, resulting in the fact that the subsequent coating has zero penetration into the substrate.
This instantly shows that the ‘new’ paint has adhered perfectly well to the existing coating BUT, the existing has de-laminated from the surface. Should the back be showing either the fine layer of dust and/or concrete, again, this proves very factually that either the surface has not been prepared sufficiently and/ or that the concrete is simply breaking up.
Should ANY of the above points be relevant, then an alternative method needs to be taken to help solve this problem BEFORE any further application of coating or screed:
Why Correct Surface Preparation is so important?
Types of Floor Screed
FURTHER TECHNICAL HELP REQUIRED?
We hope you have found the above information both interesting and helpful. However, should you still have be unsure as to the best solution for your needs, please don’t hesitate to ring our technical helpline now on 01234 846400. We have a fully qualified team ready to give practical advice and help assist you as much as possible.
We are regularly asked what is the best coating for my garage floor? With countless floor coatings for garage floors on the market, it is easy for garage owners to purchase paint that isn’t particularly suitable for their garage floor.
Many garage owners find themselves having to paint their garage floor regularly due to the constant wear and tear of the flooring. This can be caused by heavy impacts, car tyre marks and chemical spills. Contaminants such as oil, paint and white spirit leaving unsightly patches on flooring.
Before painting a garage floor, it is important to understand what the problem areas are in order to buy the most suitable product as a solution.
Question garage owners should ask, include:
These questions not only act as a guide in choosing the best coating for your garage floor, they also allow you to get to the root cause of the problems in the first place. Application of any coating or paint to a floor contaminated with oil, is almost guaranteed to be deemed as a ‘waste of money’. The surface must be correctly prepared to prevent the oil from seeping through.
It is important to ‘treat’ your surfaces before coating them to prevent issues post-paint.
Primers are designed to seal the surface from the out-gassing of the concrete. Air will rise and be expelled from the concrete which is often caused by a rise in temperature or a change in humidity. Another major cause to poor flooring is rising damp. Due to a poor or non-existent DPM (Damp Proof Membrane), the damp is caused by a rising water table and/or the immediate surrounding areas being waterlogged.
Air entrapment is a common issue that can occur if the surface isn’t primed before being coated. This happens when the air pushes bubbles into the resin coat which later bursts, leaving ‘craters’ and ‘pin holes’ in your floor paint. Mixing the resin too quickly can also cause this. It is important to use the correct tools to mix to avoid issues.
Primer tackles this issue by soaking further into the surface to fully seal the entire surface area of concrete floors. Air is then less likely to push up, and on the rare occasion that it does, the bubble will pop and the resin now being thinner, will generally revert back and refill the ‘pin hole’ caused by the bubble.
Not all garage floors are made of concrete, some may be vinyl tiles, cement render or even wooden. It is important to use the correct primer for your surface to really take advantage of the benefits.
If you require a primer that is non-toxic, you will need to purchase an extremely strong water dispersed epoxy. Specially formulated for non-toxic and non-taint applications (food factories or populated areas) but is perfect for use on damp areas.
For areas that are dusty and unstable, you will need an ultra-low viscosity epoxy. Designed for maximum penetration while providing a good film build by re-bonding the substrate together, returning the floor to a solid sound surface.
Where the floors have been subjected to oil and grease, using hot compressed air was the common solution to tackle this problem. Due to Health and Safety and obvious fire precautions, this solution is no longer used. Primer can now be used to solve this problem without any risk to the health and safety of the applicant. This is acheived by sealing dry or damp surfaces completely soaked with oil and grease. The formulation is designed to bind up to 15% water into the resin (without any emulsion or bubble formation). This enables the application to oil soaked concrete floors. We recommend steam cleaning your floors before application of any paints of coatings once primer has been used.
A floor coating does not do well if you have moisture issues. Hydrostatic pressure from the moisture can actually cause the coating to peel up, sometimes taking pieces of the concrete with it. Should floors be devoid of an effective Damp Proof Membrane (DPM), virtually any paint will lift and peel off the surface. Indeed, even self-levelling screeds can be pushed up by water pressure. This is another nightmare regularly experienced by many companies. For this reason, a DPM primer is recommended as a solution.
What is the best garage floor coating?
A successful garage floor coating should be able to protect the concrete from acid/oil attacks and salt attacks. Salt is a common surface problem found in garages, especially during the Winter months where it is picked up from the roads. It is important to choose a coating that is imperious and has high chemical resistance properties.
Single pack paints cure atmospherically which in turn often leaves a micro porous finish. This is one of the main reasons for failure in standard paints that are widely available from most paint stores. Twin pack resinous coating cure chemically as the two parts are mixed together. Due to the chemical reaction, this ensures that they are totally impervious and far more resistant to damage and staining.
If a durable surface that is both wear and oil resistant is required, the recommendation is to choose a twin pack resin coating. Found in the finest of homes and garages, the coating will usually be a 100% solids epoxy. Commonly used in warehouses and factories, manufacturing plants is can also be used in garages and showrooms. The finished coating is many times stronger than the finish of the actual concrete itself. This will offer a complete seal to the substrate and therefore protect from those annoying liquid spills. Other coatings used are either polyurethane or polyaspartic coatings although these are not so easy to lay and require expert installers.
Should you have an extremely busy commercial garage that gets constant wear and tear from rolling tool boxes and trolley jacks, as well as heavy foot and vehicular traffic. It is important to choose a coating that can survive some of the toughest challenges in the industry!
If you are still unsure about the best solution for your needs, give our friendly Sales and Technical team a call on 01234 846400.
The first step is selecting the right product using the list below.
To be honest, the question How to Repair a Concrete Floor is one of the most common question asked but really too generic to answer here. There are so many different scenarios that this guide would end up a few miles long…!
So what we will do here is:
Should you not find the answer to your specific requirement, please don’t hesitate to send us a question and we will send you the answer by return. Of course, you can always ring us free on 0800 980 0852 and one of our qualified and experienced applicators will be happy to give you all the help you need.
CRETEX®
CRETEX® is one of many recognised and trusted trademarks internationally registered to Polycote UK and provides an entire range of floor repair products that are second to none!
Don’t worry about temperatures. We have products that that can cure down to -40°C and capable of traffic in less than 2 hours! We have a product that or withstand working temperatures of 1200°C!
Forget the need of expensive labour or specialist equipment. There is no need to cut out floors to certain depths or widths. We have products that can be feathered to absolutely nothing yet retain unbelievable strength!
Are long curing times causing you logistical nightmares? Did you know that we have a repair that can cure to the strength of 40N/mm (the same as a fully cured power floated factory floor) in only 2 hours. We have self-leveling floor screeds that can be driven over by forklifts the following day. We even have a repair product that can be driven over instantly!
When all is said and done, our products will save you time, effort AND money, so please use the Fast Product Identifier below and see how easy it is to find a professional, long term solution.
FURTHER TECHNICAL HELP REQUIRED?
Thank you for your interest and we hope you have found the above information both interesting and helpful. However, should you still have be unsure as to the best solution for your needs, please don’t hesitate to ring our technical helpline now on 01234 846400. We have a fully qualified team ready to give practical advice and help assist you as much as possible.
Please let us know how what you think of this guide and also be free to ask what else you would like to know about primers, or indeed any other coating question:
Preparing a concrete floor can vary hugely in terms of time and technique. The importance, type and degree of preparation required before painting, depends on the type and condition of concrete, the exposure, and the coating system to be applied. The concrete should be clean, dry and free of dust, dirt, oil, surface matter and form release build-up.
When using any of the equipment or chemical solutions recommended below, be sure to follow all manufacturer’s instructions and follow any recommended safety procedures.
The first method of preparation is the removal of all surface dust, dirt and any other loose/friable material using either a broom or vacuum cleaner. These can be complemented with a sander or wire brush to remove loose matter from the surface and/or to abrade the existing surface to provide a ‘key’ for any subsequent coating.
An alternative, to the mechanical methods of the preparation of concrete floors for epoxy coatings application, can be accomplished by using chemical cleaning methods:
Acid Etching
Etching is a very low-cost chemical method commonly used to treat concrete floors to remove laitance and provide a profile. The objective of acid etching is to dissolve the weak surface layer known as laitance and open the pores to allow penetration of the sealer coat. Acid Etching products are a concentrated Hydrochloric Acid and should be diluted with water. The volume dilution ratio can range from 1 part acid to 3 parts water to as weak as 1 part acid to 10 parts water depending upon the floor being treated.The surface is pre-dampened and the diluted acid applied uniformly over an appropriate area. The approximate spreading rate is normally around 10sq.m per litre of acid mixture. The acid should remain on the surface for two to three minutes of bubbling reaction. After application of the acid, scrub the surface with a stiff bristle pavement, scrubbing broom or a rotary power scrubber will facilitate the etching process. The vigorous formation of bubbles indicates proper etching and must be obtained. The absence of bubbles or a weak reaction indicates the presence of a curing compound membrane or a surface hardener on the concrete. Once etching is completed, thorough rinsing with fresh water must be done before the surface dries – in order to avoid the formation of salts on the surface. Once formed, these salts are difficult to remove. Any residual acidity must be neutralised with an alkaline cleaner followed by thorough rinsing with fresh water.
A properly etched concrete surface will be hard but porous and will have a profile similar to that of fine sandpaper. Water will penetrate easily and will hot bead up on the surface. In many cases, more than one etching operation is required to obtain a satisfactory result. The etching solution should never be more concentrated than 1 part acid to 3 parts water. If satisfactory results are not obtained with this concentration, repeat the etching procedure. If the surface is rougher than fine sandpaper after one etching, more dilute acid solutions (dilution up to 1 part acid to 10 parts water) should be used. In addition to muriatic acid, proprietary etchants, which contain phosphoric acid and concentrated cleaners, are available and may also be used.As an alternative to etching with hydrochloric acid, the use of phosphoric acid (which is non-volatile) should be considered in sensitive situations.Please note that Acid Etching will not be effective over release agents, most curing membranes, or most surface hardeners. Should you wish to remove greases, oils, or other types of contaminants, these can be treated with a powerful degreaser prior to etching procedure.IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: Please further note, that both hydrochloric and phosphoric acids cause burns to skin and eyes, and the inhalation of acid fumes may be harmful.
Solvent Cleaning
A Solvent Cleaner is a unique blend of fast drying solvents. Effectively cutting through rubber, grease, oil and stubborn marks this unique cleaner will dry extremely fast and be ready for any repair or coating almost immediately. However, please be aware that this will produce a strong odour and will not be suitable for food or sensitive environment. In enclosed environments, correct breathing apparatus should be used.
Degreasing
The removal of any grease, oils and fats from floor and wall surfaces is imperative, prior to applying paint or other coatings. Polycote Degrease IT is a powerful multi-purpose cleaner and degreaser, containing phosphate, alkali builders and solvents in a highly alkaline detergent composite.Normally diluted with water at a ratio between 1:4 for floors and 1:40 for machinery, Degrease IT may also be used undiluted for removing severe grease contamination. Spray or pour and brush the chemical onto the surface to be cleaned and allow to penetrate for at least 5 minutes. The surface should then be thoroughly scrubbed to lift the grease or oil from the surface. Once done, this should then be thoroughly rinsed away. An Aquavac is an excellent way of removing the waste. Better still, is the use of a Scrubber Drier which will not only lift the contamination from the surface due to the heavy scrubbing motion but will also suck off the resultant liquid into a built-in waste tank leaving not only a well-cleaned surface but also one that is pretty much dry. As mentioned previously, it is important to realise concrete is like a sponge – it is full of air holes. Pour a bucket of water onto any unsealed concrete floor and you will watch almost the entire amount simply disappear. The water will rise and evaporate over the following few days until the concrete reverts to a completely dry state. However, when oil or some other form of contamination has penetrated the concrete, this will never evaporate. As the oil has penetrated into the concrete, it must be realised that a chemical clean will only wash the top surface. The oil remaining within the slab will simply rise to the freshly cleaned surface and the floor will appear to be as dirty as it was immediately prior to cleaning. Before the coating of the floor, priming of the floor should be completed as soon as possible after the completion of the cleaning. A very good primer can bind up to 15% oil into itself and its unique ability to adhere to previously contaminated floors is almost unparalleled.
The preparation of concrete using certain mechanical methods has the advantage of speed. If the more rigorous methods such as blasting or scarifying are attempted by insufficiently trained operators, however, removal of too much of the surface can easily result in exposed aggregate and an overly rough and porous surface. It must be realised that improperly performed mechanical preparation can severely damage a concrete floor.
Power grinding, sanding or scraping can be used to open holes and voids and to remove curing membranes, some hardeners, loose matter and laitance from the surface of floor slabs. These methods can be used in place of blasting but are considerably slower and less effective.
Shotblasting This method of industrial floor preparation is widely regarded as the most professional and most effective surface preparation method for concrete is a light blast with a Vacuum Assisted Shot blaster. The objective is the same as acid etching. The blast removes all form release agents, weak concrete, laitance, dirt and contamination. Being connected to one of our highly powerful industrial vacuums assures that at least 95% of the dust is contained.
Scarifying / Scabbling When inspection and testing procedures indicate concrete floors must be chipped down to sound concrete Scarifiers and Scabblers may be used to remove the top layer of concrete to expose a fresh, clean surface. This technique is practical only for floors. Important; dust protection is required when used in the presence of machinery, food or close traffic. We have a full team of qualified operatives ready to complete this work as necessary. However, the equipment can be either purchased or rented should you wish to complete the work yourselves. Please be free to ask.
Hand Held / High-Speed Diamond Grinders Far more than just a ‘sander’, our Diamond Grinders are powerful enough for almost any demanding industrial requirement. They are used for many and varied applications, from the ‘keying’ of existing surfaces, removal of existing paint and weak laitance, to the smoothing out of uneven surfaces, we have a grinder that will be ideal for your application. On the contrary, we are often asked for the complete whereby we are asked to actually roughen the surface to achieve higher levels of slip resistance.Diamond grinding can smooth out floors to a laser level finish, removing minor pits and divots, high spots and roughness on concrete floors. Should two slabs of concrete be poorly laid to a different height, the grinder is used to smooth out the transition from one slab to the other. A huge benefit of the system is that all machines, ranging from simple hand held grinders to the biggest ride-on machines can all be connected to industrial dust recovery units. This, in turn, means that we can achieve a 95% dust free operation.With grinders that have pressure controlled rubber mounted non-planetary grinding heads and specially designed diamonds, you are able to grind and/or polish without scouring the concrete, even on cracks and expansion joints. The specialist disc, embedded with a coarse diamond grit can easily prepare, clean and abrade existing coatings for re-coat. This process will remove thin layer coatings and weak toppings and provide a textured finish suitable for two coatings to bond together. Should an existing coating be already down that is fundamentally adhering very well to the surface but one that simply needs rejuvenating, the keying off this existing surface in order to accept a further coat can also be easily achieved.In comparison to shot blasting, diamond grinding is relatively is slow and intensive. However, the finish left can be far smoother. In some cases, we are asked to actually polish the surface to a super smooth finish.Please do note however that in the wrong hands, diamond grinders can leave swirl marks in the slab should the operative be untrained or overly aggressive.
Should you still have been unsure as to the best solution for your needs, please ring our technical helpline now on 01234 846400 and speak to a fully qualified team ready to give practical advice and help assist you as much as possible.
When temperatures start to fall you need to start thinking very seriously about the minimum temperatures that your chosen floor coating can be stored at, and applied at, and the minimum temperature the coating will cure at.
A lot of companies may well tell you to wait until the following year. Using Polycote however, we have products (solutions!) for virtually any condition. In fact, we even have floor coatings that can be applied at -30°C and STILL cure in only 2 hours!!
So, whoever you use, us included, the most important advice is to carefully read the technical data sheet and don’t forget, you need to review all the products to be used for the specific project on hand, from the repair mortar for filling holes, to the type of primer prior to the top coat.
The above-mentioned points are obviously elementary, so now we’ll give you a few other things to consider that are not so obvious, which of course is really the main point of all of our advice sheets.
If you have to take materials to a site, please take care of how cold they will get, especially in freezing conditions. When you get to the site, don’t leave them outside on the back of the truck. All of our products are professional products offering you long-term solutions but you must respect their characteristics. If you are going to be a while, move them indoors and warm them before using.
There is another very good reason to keep them warm. When many materials get cold, they become thick and possibly stiff and much more difficult to use. Thick materials don’t go so far which means you can actually hugely reduce your coverage and end up ‘running out’ of material. Alternatively (and just to really make a point here) keep the products warm and they will flow so much easier, your application will be quicker and less effort and you should easily achieve the coverages allowed for!
If the room does not have heating then you will need to consider how you are going to warm it up. Gas heaters, kerosene and diesel heaters are obviously popular but take care…! These heaters can often throw out a ‘fume’ which can then settle onto the surface to be painted and end up causing de-lamination. A good example of this is the black marks you can get on a wall from the exhaust fumes from cars that are regularly reversed up to the wall.
An electric heater is the best as there are no fumes. However, as well all know, they do unfortunately take the longest to warm the place up!
Don’t forget that heat rises!! Many people put the heater into the room for a couple of hours, walk in and say “Phew, it’s hot in here”, and promptly turn the heater down or even off altogether. The unfortunate thing is that most of them are not painting the ceiling!! The floor is far, far colder and may well STILL be too cold to paint. PLEASE remember, if the building has not been heated at all and it is very cold outside, the entire fabric of the building – and the floor slab in particular – can take several days to even begin to get warm. You may well have to turn a heater on in the area well before the day of application.
The temperature of the floor slab is influenced by the ground temperature and even in a heated environment, take care when applying alongside external walls as the slab temperatures here can be considerably colder than the slab in the middle of the room. These external edges can cause the primer to take longer to cure and the average person who is not a tradesman may well not realise this.
They will enter the room, and think everything is fine – they don’t normally walk right next to the wall and where the primer has cured in the middle of the room, they then think it is a perfect time to apply the top coat. Please realise that if the primer has not cured sufficiently in ‘spots’ or ‘areas’, this is one of the main reasons for the failure of the top coat.
Another popular area to take very great care of in cold weather is DOORWAYS.
So many people do not realise how much draft is coming from under a door, particularly (but definitely not only) industrial doors. Many a floor has been wrecked due to freezing temperatures blowing under or around a door and effectively ‘killing’ the curing of the coating. Once uncured paint has been frozen, it is very very rare it will cure and even if it does, the hardness and wearability of the coating will be hugely reduced… where do you think you need the hardest and strongest coating? Where is going to take the most wear and tear every single day? Yes, you’ve guessed it I’m sure……..…right in the doorway!
In a nutshell, please just check the doors and if you do have a draft problem, don’t ignore it and hope for the best as so many people do. Put some sand along the front of the door – makes sure you put enough! Not just a little bit that ends up getting blown under the door. It’ll be ‘sod’s law’ as they say that it WILL cure and you will either have a fantastic or more than likely a very annoying extremely non-slip surface that you neither want nor can you keep clean!!
Another way to fill the gap is to get some low tack tape and simply tape up the doors as much as sensibly possible.
Alternatively, why not do the job properly in the first place? You are obviously losing a load of heat under and around the doors and you paying a lot of money trying to keep the place warm. Buy one of our professional Brush Strips and dramatically reduce your heating bills while helping keep dust and pests out!
It’s obviously wintertime! Have you got any drips from the roofs or gutters? If you have, please get them fixed first. This is another very popular reason for spoiling what should be a lovely, hard, long-lasting floor.
Again, if I may give you another little tip here, check out our Roof Coatings and specifically Wetterflex product, as this one can be applied onto virtually any surface AND, even in the rain!
CHECK OUT OUR RANGE OF ROOF COATING PRODUCTS NOW
Take care in the winter months as humidity can either cause water-based products to take a lot longer to cure. If the atmosphere is very humid, then the water within the product will not be able to rise and thus, prevent the paint from curing.
Another problem here is that the humidity can then settle on the surface and cause the surface to ‘bloom’ (get something like a milky whiteness on the surface). It can also cause what is known as an orange peel effect, (a sort of textured appearance) in the top coat.
As a rule of thumb, it is not advisable to apply an epoxy if the temperature is less than 10 degrees and/or the humidity is greater than 80% unless you have specifically discussed your requirements/conditions and we have given you a specific product that can cope in such conditions. Other than that, the simple advice is not to rush it but wait for a better day, do it once and do it right…!
Maybe edit it slightly to say something like – Want to know how to ensure your roof is damage-free in winter, especially when it comes to snow? Read this article to discover the warning signs of snow damage.
Finally…
It’s always good to end on a positive note! A cooler day can in fact be a good day in which to apply a coating! The resins will not be so hot which will give you a much longer pot life and the surface temperature will not be so hot, therefore providing you with a longer application time!!
Thank you for your interest and we hope you have found the above information both interesting and helpful. However, should you still have be unsure as to the best solution for your needs, please don’t hesitate to ring our technical helpline now on 01234 846400. We have a fully qualified team ready to give practical advice and help assist you as much as possible.
Most often a popular choice for both residential and commercial applications. An epoxy floor coating, will do a lot more than make your garage floor look beautiful. It is also acts as one of the strongest, durable and long lasting coatings that you can apply to your garage floor. Below are the top 7 reasons why you should paint your garage floor helping you to achieve a more stylish and durable epoxy coated floor instead.
It is common knowledge that the use of a concrete floor gathered a lot of dust. Most of the dusty powder you find in your garage, you’ll find, collects on your cars and storage items. An epoxy coating acts like a topical sealer which will seal up the concrete to make it a dust free surface.
Dust can easily get transferred into your house and acts as a grinder on polished floor. It also gets into woolen carpets and causes tremendous damage to the structure and strength of the fibres!
Top Tip: It is important to hose or pressure wash your car before cleaning it with a sponge or cloth. Your car will be covered with a fine layer of dust. By going straight into cleaning it with a cloth or sponge acts as a grinding paste causing so many cars lose their shine. The more you clean your car, the more your ‘grinding paste’ is working against you.
An unsealed concrete floor acts very much like a sponge by soaking up the vast majority of liquid spilt onto it. When water is spilt on concrete, a damp patch is caused for at least a day or two. As the water rises to the surface it evaporates and so, your floor dries. However, if oil is spilt onto an unsealed surface, it will soak into the substrate.
Once the oil is within the substrate, it will also rise to the surface and unlike the water, it will not evaporate. The floor is now ‘contaminated’. When you apply a coating over a contaminated surface, the floor begins to ‘sweat’, the oil from within the substrate rises. The paint then de-laminates. The importance of sealing your garage floor with the correct garage floor paint helps to combat and prevent damage to your floors. You should seal the floor as quickly as possible!
Chemical attack to the floor can cause serious damage to the structure of the concrete and will certainly cause weakness and degradation to the surface. This makes it dusty, unstable, unsafe and at the very least, extremely difficult to keep clean.
Sealing the floor helps to prevent this. However, it is important to make sure that the surface is properly prepared. It needs to be sound, primed sufficiently and top coated with a coating that is specifically designed to resist the chemicals being used.
To seal a concrete floor can make your cleaning routine a 100 times faster and much easier. Forget all the hard scrubbing. A much easier, simple mopping or wiping of the surface is mostly all that is required. A sealed floor will help prevent bacteria and the spread of contamination. The additional use of an Anti Bacterial Coating enables many people to safely store food in the garage.
Untreated floors can become very slippery for numerous reasons. Whether it is just very smooth in the first place, to spillages such as oil or grease, as well as the transfer of water and snow from tyres, etc.
Using an Anti Slip Floor Coating will give you a good clean surface upon which to stand and work safely.
It is always best to protect a working surface, even if it is concrete. Water and ice caused by the freeze/thaw cycle, oil spillages, battery leakages all cause deterioration to the surface of the concrete. To seal a floor is always advised to prevent such things from happening.
Epoxy primers and sealers such as Polycote EP Primer, OT Primer and DPM Primer are also designed to have good penetration into the surface and therefore strengthen the surface against impact damage. It is important to remember that once the surface starts to delaminate, the cost of repair or to apply a Self-Levelling product to bring the area back to smooth is a far costlier business. Take the above mentioned precautions ahead of time!
We all know, first impressions count. So many people concentrate on walls and ceilings yet so many neglect their floors. Does anyone know how many people walk along looking at the ceiling? Or even the walls for that matter?
What we do know is that everybody is careful where they put their feet and everybody watches where they walk. May we also say, the main reason for this is that no one wants to trip over or tread into something ‘nasty’!
Your floors are very important and (to use an old expression), can ‘make or break’ a room. A nice bright, clean floor makes a world of a difference to a room and EVERYBODY will see it!
My final piece of advice is – a half painted floor is worse than one that is not painted at all…! So to end on a positive note, should you decide to brighten up your room, please make sure that you to it properly. The correct preparation, the correct primer and the correct top coat. For this, turn to our further guide – What is the best coating for my garage floor?
Thank you for your interest and we hope you have found the above information both interesting and helpful. Please be assured, we can happily (and carefully) guide you through the entire process from the initial inspection of the floor, spotting defects and testing for contamination, right through to the final brush stroke!
Should you wish to speak with someone now, please don’t hesitate to ring our technical helpline on 01234 846400. A fully qualified team are ready and willing to give as much practical advice and help as you would like.
Before deciding on the best cleaning method, clean several relatively small areas to assess the efficiency of the method and the appearance and condition of the surface after cleaning. The reasons for cleaning must be considered carefully because results with methods intended to improve only the appearance of the surface can differ substantially from results obtained with methods intended to prepare the surface for a heavy-duty urethane or epoxy coating.
Dirty, Oily, Contaminated Concrete
One of the most common problems facing the floor painter is the cleaning of dirty / contaminated concrete. Areas around machinery, pumps and equipment subject to heavy spillage of oils and other contaminants should be closely inspected.
It is important to realise concrete is like a sponge – it is full of air holes. Pour a bucket of water onto any unsealed concrete floor and you will watch almost the entire amount simply disappear. Being water, this will simply rise and evaporate over the following few days until the concrete reverts to a completely dry state. However, when oil or some other form of contamination has penetrated the concrete, this will never ‘evaporate’. Furthermore, it must be realised that a chemical clean will only wash the top surface. Due to the fact that the oil has penetrated into the concrete, as the surface is cleaned, the oil remaining within the slab will simply rise to the freshly cleaned surface and for the floor only to appear as dirty ‘now’ as it was immediately prior to cleaning!
It is advised to degrease the surface and then to check the soundness of the surface structure. Should the concrete have been damaged or weakened by such contamination, mechanical removal of the damaged surface is paramount.
A similar cleaning procedure or just steam cleaning with hot detergent will clean tight, old coatings. All loose and peeling paint must be removed prior to the application of any further coating.
Testing Procedure
The following procedures can be used to determine a suitable chemical preparation method.
Treat several small areas (approx. 1sq.m) with Polycote Etch IT. A mixture of 1 part Etch IT to 3 parts water is recommended for testing. If the solution bubbles vigorously producing a uniform white foam or haze of bubbles and leaves a clean surface, there is no curing membrane or hardener.
Should a single etch result in the surface being appreciably rougher than fine sandpaper, repeat the test with a more dilute acid solution until an etched profile similar to fine sandpaper is obtained.
However, if the opposite happen whereby only a weak or partial reaction occurs, beware of the fact that a curing agent or surface hardener is present. In many cases, more than one etch is required. A poor result and/or failure of the above tests indicates the presence of a hardener, which cannot be removed chemically. Remove concrete to a depth of at least 1-3mm, preferably with the use of a heavy diamond grinder or scabbler.
When diluting acid with water, always add acid to water.
Previously Painted Surfaces
It is extremely important to ensure the existing surface is completely sound and never more so than when painting over an existing floor coating.
Too many people would like to simply re-coat the floor with little to no preparation. However, should the existing coating be peeling, flaking or bubbling, it must be realised that to simply coat
over a product that has not fully adhered to the substrate is nothing more than a complete waste of time, effort and money!
Testing Procedure
For the removal of existing paints and epoxy coatings, most companies will favour mechanical cleaning such as Vacuum Assisted Diamond Grinders and / or Vacuum Assisted Shotblasters.
However, if the job is only small and/or the conditions not allow such methods, then chemical preparation will be required.
For the removal of standard single pack paints and linemarking, use Polycote Graffiti Remover Liquid. For heavy painted surfaces or areas coated with twin pack paints, the use of Polycote Graffiti Remover (Twin Pack) Gel is advised. Scrub a small area with non-woven abrasive and the chosen stripper. Remove paint and rinse thoroughly with a cleaner to neutralize.
Once completed, it is often advisable to etch the surface as well with Polycote Etch IT, as this will not only neutralize the paint stripper but will also give the perfect treatment to the concrete and ensure a good adhesion to the resultant surface.
CAUTION: Wear protective clothing, gloves and goggles and, if necessary, respiratory protection when performing these tests.
Thank you for your interest and we hope you have found the above information both interesting and helpful. However, should you still have be unsure as to the best solution for your needs, please don’t hesitate to ring our technical helpline now on 01234 846400. We have a fully qualified team ready to give practical advice and help assist you as much as possible.
Chemical Cleaning
If you are an industrial user with a large area, then you may be better to consider mechanical preparation. However, for smaller areas / domestic users, an alternative method is with the use of an acid based solution – Polycote Etch IT
Acid Etching
Etch IT is a very low cost chemical method commonly used to treat concrete floors to remove laitance and provide a profile. The objective of acid etching is to dissolve the weak surface layer known as laitance and open the pores to allow penetration of the sealer coat.
Please note:
Pre-Dampen The Surface
Pre-dampen the surface with clean cold water taking care to remove any puddling areas or excess surface water. This dampening is only to remove the immediate suction of a dry surface as we do not want the acid soaking down into the substrate. The ‘treatment’ is only for the loose/friable material on the surface.
Diluting The Acid
Polycote Etch IT is a concentrated Hydrochloric Acid and should be diluted with water. The dilution ratio is normally 3 parts water to 1 part acid but can be both stronger or weaker, depending upon the quality / porosity of the concrete being treated.
Please note:
Application
Using a relatively stiff broom, the diluted acid should then be applied uniformly over the surface. The acid will bubble and/or ‘fizz’ for the following 3-5 minutes during which you can scrub the surface with the broom to help facilitate the etching process. The bubbling/fizzing reaction of the solution indicates that the etching is indeed strong enough and is completing its work.
Once etching is completed – and BEFORE the surface has dried, wash the area thoroughly with fresh cold water to help remove the surface dust / loose material and also to neutralize the surface.
Brush the water out of the door and depending upon local regulations, this can now be washed down the normal drainage system. By the time it has been sent down the drain, it should have been well neutralized by the amount of water used to wash the floor. However, should you wish to be absolutely sure then simply send a goodly quantity of fresh clean water down the drain with the use of a hose pipe.
Please note that if the surface DOES dry before this washing process, it can allow the formation of salts on the surface and once formed, these salts are difficult to remove!
Scrubber / Drier
Alternatively, the use of a mechanical scrubber / drier is good for removing the water and debris, although take care to thoroughly wash out after use to ensure there be no degradation to the rubber seals, etc.
Result:
Properly etched concrete will leave the surface hard and slightly textured. More importantly, the pores will now be opened and thereby allow the subsequent treatment/coating to penetrate well into the surface.
Important:
FURTHER TECHNICAL HELP REQUIRED?
Thank you for your interest and we hope you have found the above information both interesting and helpful. However, should you still have be unsure as to the best solution for your needs, please don’t hesitate to ring our technical helpline now on 01234 846400. We have a fully qualified team ready to give practical advice and help assist you as much as possible.
Many of our customers ask about applying an epoxy floor coating over existing vinyl flooring, both in sheet form and tiles. As many have experienced, as vinyl flooring gets old and/or well-used, the heat-welded seams often burst open allowing contamination to seep through and under the flooring. It also becomes porous and difficult to keep clean.
Removing Vinyl flooring can also be a real headache – for several reasons:
Residual Adhesive
Poor Quality Substrate
The next issue is not just what is left on the surface by way of the glue, but now the ‘reverse’. Unfortunately, the choice to use a lot of vinyl is due to the poor quality of the substrate and, when pulling up the vinyl, MOST people also end up pulling any latex or self-levelling screeds previously used to level out the surface.
Now you have two problems; glue residue on the surface and holes / loose screeds.
A lot of rooms that have had vinyl floors laid suffer from surface contamination. People have laid these floors due to them being portrayed as totally impervious and non-slip. However, they are often in wet/greasy areas that can cause havoc with any coating that hopes to stick to the vinyl. Kitchens, bathrooms, toilets, food processing areas, factories, laboratories, garages, kennels and catteries, etc, etc all suffer from grease and oil contamination. It is therefore vitally important that a suitable bio-degradable degreaser is used – see Polycote Degrease IT
Once de-greased, make sure the surface is clean and sound. Any loose vinyl must be removed and re-laid and any holes repaired prior to a final abrasion of the surface – to provide a key.
Once you have established that the vinyl adheres well to the substrate and that the surface is clean and dry, it is necessary to thoroughly abrade the surface in order to ensure good adhesion to the surface.
If the area is small, this can be achieved with an orbital sander, using something like 60-grit sandpaper. However, if the area is of a larger size, then the use of a STR Machine is definitely recommended.
If the vinyl flooring has been polished and waxed, especially in schools and colleges, hospitals and hotels, it is important to note that a simple abrasion of the surface is NOT good enough. It is vitally important that the surface layer(s) of wax/polish is sufficiently ‘cut’ through to ensure the coating can adhere to the tile itself. Again, the STR Machine is good for this although it ‘may’ need something slightly more aggressive such as a Vacuum Assisted Grinder.
Once preparations have been completed, holes and imperfections (should there be any) can be filled with suitable repair material. The best repair material would be very much dependant upon you’re your own specific needs of course. However, the most popular repair products worthy of note are Polycote Easi-fil or Polycote Cretex EP.
Once completed, and the repair material suitable cured, you are now ready to apply a coating.
To advise on a coating here and now would not be professional as there are so many different factors to take into consideration. For instance; should you wish to paint over existing multi-coloured vinyl flooring, for example – intermediate dark and light tiles, you will almost certainly get a shading effect coming through the coating. Should a full obliteration be required it is therefore advisable to note that and that extra coat(s) may well be required.
However, should you wish to achieve a long-lasting high-wear coating, that can provide a totally impervious and easy-to-clean surface, then please consider one coat of our WD Primer, followed by one coat of our Flortex Professional. Proven nationwide (even worldwide!), this system is excellent for the coating of vinyl floors and can save a whole lot of headaches caused by the many other coatings that would require the full removal of a vinyl floor.
We would like to assure you that all these situations are easily overcome and that you can achieve a lovely new floor over existing vinyl. However, we are of the opinion that it is always good to know of problems that could arise before they happen. As the old saying goes, forewarned is forearmed.
Thank you for your interest and we hope you have found the above information both interesting and helpful. However, should you still be unsure as to the best solution for your needs, please don’t hesitate to ring our technical helpline now on 01234 846400. We have a fully qualified team ready to give practical advice and help assist you as much as possible.
If you’ve solved your damp issue and are ready to buy your waterproof, self-levelling compound, try Easi-Screed Industrial. If you still need to tackle rising damp, take a look at our guide below.
Most buildings in 2019 are built with a damp-proof course, however, this wasn’t always the case. Many older buildings were built without a damp-proof course resulting in rising damp making it necessary to make remedial repairs.
For many companies who are looking to repair their flooring from damage due to rising damp, it is important to understand the root cause of the problem. Below are three of the main reasons why there are damp issues in the first place.
A common mistake usually happens from not allowing the concrete to dry sufficiently, after the pouring of the concrete. It is important to understand how long freshly laid concrete should be left before the application of a paint.
The timing is dependent upon at least three factors:
The second common mistake in relation to dampness is application of paint after a liquid chemical preparation has been carried out. These chemicals are normally water-based and sufficient time must be allowed for the concrete to dry prior to application of floor paint.
The period of time is entirely dependent on both the atmospheric temperature and humidity. Consideration needs to be given to the porosity of the concrete and the amount of water allowed to soak in. All these points can have a huge influence on the amount of time the substrate will take to dry.
Brushing away or Aqua-vacuuming the excess/standing water as much as possible can help to speed up the drying process.
As mentioned above, dampness may be rising up through the slab from the ground below due to having no Damp Proof Membrane at all (common in old buildings) or having a damaged/punctured membrane.
New Concrete and Wet Concrete should be left for the respective period of time for the floors to dry out, before applying an epoxy floor coating can be used to seal and waterproof the floor. A twin-pack epoxy cures chemically and provides a totally impervious finish.
However, in the case of Rising Damp, it is extremely important that any such dampness will be coming up with a certain amount of pressure and this will push off most floor coatings, self-levelling screeds and tiled floors as well as complete delamination of the flooring due to water pressure.
For this reason, it is very important to prime flooring before finishing off with a top coat. Once the Primer has cured, a top coat can then be applied to give a superb hard-wearing finish. A self-levelling cementitous screeds can be poured over rough and worn surfaces to provide a superbly smooth new, level surface.
Our technical team is available on live chat between 8:00 – 17:00 GMT to offer you advice! Ask our experts today.
*Disclaimer – please note that we do not recommend any painting of freshly laid concrete after a period of 4-6 weeks and cannot take responsibility for any problems that may be caused.
More often that not, concrete dust is a common problem felt by many facilities, even after the sweeping and cleaning of it.
Concrete dust is the powdering of the surface and is primarily caused by the disintegration of the top layer of weakened concrete. Foot traffic, heavy loads, automotive tyres and even cleaning of the concrete are some of the factors that can cause dusting of concrete.
There are so many reasons for the weakening of the concrete layer such as poor mixing of the concrete, ageing of the flooring, or even insufficient curing at the surface. The most common reason for weakening is excess water bleeding at the surface; the excessive amounts of water in the mix will rise to the surface during the trowelling process. The rising water carries fine particles to the surface forming a layer of laitance.
Laitance is a porous layer of softer concrete that slowly breaks down to create a white powdery surface. The sweeping of this surface provides very little results as the concrete is in a constant state of disintegration. If left untreated, the concrete dust can become troublesome as it ends up on surfaces within facilities such as cars in garages or machinery in manufacturing plants.
The prevention of concrete dust is an easier process than often thought – sealing of the surface!
When attempting to seal concrete the most important thing to do is to prepare the surface. The removal of the loose material will enable sealer to grip onto the concrete. The size of the area and the severity of the problem will determine the method needed to prepare the concrete. Once the surface has been prepared, a sealer can then be applied. With many sealers available, like single and twin packs, water/solvent based and solvent free sealers, it is important to choose a sealer that is suited to your flooring.
For damp flooring, water-based products are recommended. For dry flooring, we recommend using a clear polyurethane floor sealer as the polyurethane formulation will reduce porosity whilst providing a dustproof surface. Areas that have oil/chemical contamination require an epoxy primer manufactured to seal dry or damp concrete surfaces impregnated with almost any type of oils, including animal, vegetable or mineral based oils Concrete with rising damp issues will require a primer that is sufficient to withstand underlying water pressures.
While concrete dust is a nuisance to your facilities, the issue is easily rectified. Unless the dusting is severe, proper cleaning, preparation of the floor and easy application of a penetrating sealer usually achieves the job.
Finally, for those who are unsure about the best solution for them, see out specialist concrete coatings and sealing product manufacturer to ask for advice. Give our friendly Sales and Technical Team a call and we will advise you on what will work best for you,
First of all and just to be clear, a DPM Damp Proof Membrane is most referred to in its abbreviated form – DPM.
This DPM is a ‘thick’ plastic sheet mostly 1000 – 1200 gauge polythene material. The installation of the DPM is extremely important as this acts as a barrier to prevent damp rising up through the substrate, from the ground below. Care must be taken to a) ensure there are no holes or tears in the sheet that could allow water penetration and b) ensure there is a sufficient overlap of sheets by at least 150mm should more than one sheet be required. The join should then be taped to ensure a water-tight seal is established.
We recommend that you ensure the material to be used conforms to the relevant British Standards. To use a thin, lower-grade material and then find you have water ingress at a later stage, could prove to be a VERY expensive mistake.
Whilst we are on the subject, it is normal that the DPM overlaps with the DPC (Damp Proof Course). The DPC is normally laid within the bed joint of the brickwork or blockwork, primarily to stop ground damp from rising up the walls by capillary attraction. The height at which the DPC is installed would normally be a minimum of 150mm above the external ground level. The DPM should then be folded up the inside wall and lap over onto the DPC thereby forming a continuous water barrier.
Should damp be rising up through the floor, this will should that either there is a defect with the DPM and /or there is no DPM there at all – which of course is most likely with old buildings in particular.
DISCOVER OUR RANGE OF DPM PRODUCTS
Whichever the reason, the net result is the same and it is very important to seal the concrete as soon as possible. To remove the screed in order to relay a DPM is, in most cases, completely unrealistic and actually completely unnecessary. Polycote DPM Primer is a superb twin pack high-performance epoxy coating that is designed to penetrate into the concrete and completely lock the surface from rising damp.
Mostly only one coat is required and is very simple to apply. However, should there be a particularly high water table/pressure and/or a particularly porous floor, two coats may be advised.
Should one wish to tile or re-surface the floor with a self-levelling screed such as Polycote Easi-Screed, kiln-dried sand should be broadcast onto the wet resin to ensure an inter-coat adhesion between the DPM Primer and the screed/tiles adhesive/etc.
We hope you have found the above information both interesting and helpful. However, if you’re still unsure about the best solution for your needs, please don’t hesitate to ring our technical helpline now on 01234 846400. We have a fully qualified team ready to give practical advice and help assist you as much as possible.
Let me start by saying that you must at the very least visually inspect the concrete for moisture, looking for damp or wet spots on the floor. Look at various locations as moisture conditions can vary a lot, taking particularly interest near exterior walls and expansion joints. Further into the room, take particular notice where holes have been drilled into the floor or perhaps where an old wall used to be. These are common areas where the damp proof membrane may either never have been and/or been damaged.
If you don’t want to purchase a moisture meter then a simple method to establish the presence of damp is to tape a sheet of thick polythene to the floor. It doesn’t have to be huge and an ideal size can be something like 1m x 1m. Make sure the sheet is completely sealed to the floor.
Check the sheet after about 24 hours. If beads of water show on the underside of the sheet, this will prove there is sufficient water vapor present to interfere with the adhesion of a coating system and it is important that this rising damp be eliminated prior to the application of any coating or screed system – see Polycote DPM Primer.
Psst….just by the way, a rubber car mat (or entrance mat with a rubber backing) can sometimes suffice too…!
However, as described in ASTM Method D 4263, the preferred (and most professional) test method would be the use of a moisture meter and as far as this guide is concerned I hope it is obvious to say that our simple advice is to follow the instructions sent with the particular meter purchased!
However, (and without wishing to confuse you), we MUST make the following point clear, that nothing is fool proof and even a meter can give inconclusive results…! Unfortunately, No ‘moisture meter’ of any type can give an accurate ‘moisture’ readings every time due to the many and varied conditions of room and densities of concrete. The typical ‘moisture’ meters available have two pins that measure moisture by changes in electrical resistance. However, differing chemical and physical properties that have nothing to do with moisture can wrongly influence the meter readings.
To further complicate matters; what may be relatively dry on the surface can be a whole lot worse lower down within the substrate. What you may not realise is that the damp is consistent slowly and quietly rising and due to an insignificant amount is constantly evaporating. Should you desire to coat and seal the floor, this can have the effect of making the floor sweat and draw the underlying dampness up through the slab in the same way as the plastic sheet as mentioned above.
Our advice is that wherever there is a possibility of rising damp, do not ‘take a chance’ but apply Polycote DPM Primer to seal the surface, even before installing a screed. Believe us, we’ve seen whole screeds delaminate and lift up from the original slab, all caused by water pressure. Click on Polycote DPM Primernow and see what it can do for you.
We promise to beat any quote in the UK when quoting like for like.